For decades, the sport of ultra running has been occupied by a small and atypical bunch of unique individuals. Until recently, the sport has been on the rise. Across the world humans have been drawn to the adventure and exploration, both physically and mentally, in a sport that tests the limits of human capability.
With the rise in popularity came an influx of 100-mile races. While none of these events are easy, there are a select few that separate from the rest. These select events often involve qualifying, volunteering, daunting safety waivers, and seemingly endless waitlists, for the great pleasure of paying $400 to torture yourself. Surely there must at least be a robust cash prize for winning these races? Wrong. The largest payout of any 100 mile race in the country in is the Run Rabbit Run 100 in Steamboat, CO offering a whopping $15,000 for the winner. While others, like the Moab 240, offer a grand total of zero dollars and zero cents for winning a 240 mile footrace through the Utah desert. There are select races throughout Europe that offer larger prize pools, but it’s hardly enough to float the mortgage for a year.
So, what is it about these things? What sets one apart from the other?
Some races are steeped in history. Some helped shape the sport as we know it today. And some are really friggin hard. The Leadville 100 has all three of these characteristics. The race is an out and back that starts and ends in Leadville, CO. A town perched at 10,119 feet above sea level. The highest incorporated town in the United States. The Leadville 100 is known as “The race across the sky.” As it traverses several mountain passes, and covers 18,000’ of climbing and descending. The course tops out at 12,600’ above sea level at the famed Hope Pass, which the runners have the great pleasure of summiting twice.
Leadville was once a bustling mining community, until 1980 when the last remaining silver mine closed for good. This sent the town into a bit of a tailspin, as the large majority of the town’s population received a paycheck from these mines. A few locals held out hope for their beautiful town in the Colorado mountains and decided that they could attract adventurous people to the area. The idea was that Leadville could serve as a base camp for the ample hiking, skiing, biking, and you guessed it, running areas this place offered. These locals knew that for a town to thrive as a tourism community, they needed people to spend the night. How do you get people to spend the night? Well of course, invite a bunch of idiots to partake in a 100-mile foot race, which takes the average braindead running maniac around 30 hours to complete. This may surprise you, but people didn’t exactly flock to this proposed conquest across the mountains. The first running of the Leadville 100 in 1983 involved a whopping 45 brave souls. However, as luck would have it, the good people of Leadville hosted 800 participants in the running of this year’s race. That’s a grip of hotel rooms.
I was drawn to running when I moved to Boston in 2015. A community that held the Boston Marathon in the same company as the Super Bowl. With the trails weaving along the Charles River, one of the most congested cities in America offered a great opportunity to roam. I followed a pretty typical runner’s path. Here is a step by step summary:
- Run a mile. Try not to die.
- Run a mile a few days later. A small seed is planted that you might not suck too bad.
- Run a little more and decide 4 miles is a good idea. Return to the trying not to die phase.
- Eventually get comfortable enough to sign up for a half marathon.
- Run half marathon and become slightly addicted.
- Dream of longer distances.
From there I continued to seek out a variety of races. I enjoyed them but eventually started to lose my love of it.
Enter trail running.
After moving back to Colorado in 2019, we settled into a great little neighborhood that has several protected parks with miles and miles of single-track trails. This opened a new category to me that I really enjoyed. I never took much enjoyment from the activity of hiking. Mainly because it was just too damn slow. Developing the fitness to cover miles on trails in the mountains opened a new door. It provides the opportunity to cover more ground and see more beautiful parts of this state. I didn’t really have any grand plans or goals, I just enjoyed moving through the mountains. Then the almighty Youtube algorithm took hold, and positioned a video in front of my eyeballs that would plant another seed. The video is titled “How to Run 100 Miles.” The video featured two regular dudes who would embark on the preposterous task of training for and running a 100 mile race. This seemed, and still seems, utterly absurd.
When I caught the running bug, I had viewed the marathon distance as the peak of the endurance running mountain. I etched the marathon onto the life bucket list, and a few years back was fortunate to be able to (slowly) finish the Denver Colfax Marathon. A year after that I entered a race that connected the two small Colorado towns of Ouray and Telluride, with one teensy 5,000’ climb between them. I had no idea that I had just scratched the surface.
The years since seeing that video I had a constant and nagging thought in the back of my head. What if? What if I just tried?
There was a long list of hurdles that stood in the way. For starters, I’m a dad to two little kids, a husband (albeit to the most patient and understanding wife on the planet), and I’m firmly into my late 30’s. Howevahhhhh, I couldn’t shake the idea of entering one of these races.
I sat on it for a few years. Let the thought marinate….and marinate it did. By the time I took that steak out of that proverbial refrigerator it could hardly be considered meat.
Interlude: I’ve sat on writing this part for a long time. I more or less stared into nothing debating with myself as to whether or not I should share it. Frankly, sharing this is not comfortable. But I’ve been working on getting into the business of discomfort, so here we go.
I fell into some bad habits. I imagined grandiose visions of what might lie ahead, but acted on none of them. My physical and mental being felt weak, and I needed some help.
My aforementioned wonderful spouse helped me track down a therapist that could help get me sorted out. I wasn’t sure what to say. “Hello random person I’ve never met, I’m about to share all of my weaknesses, and ask for some kind of direction. Oh and by the way, I have no idea what I’m looking for, or what would be considered “wrong” with me.
I had this preconceived notion that if there was some perceived ailment it could be and/or had to be fixed. I’m going to let you all in on a little surprise…I was wrong. My understanding of a small portion of this process, which I’m sure is an imperfect summarization, is to identify the difference between your own perception of a problem or challenge versus the other potential viewpoints or angles that may be valuable to a deeper understanding. This is a little easier in the technical world, but in the psychoanalytical world, it requires a removal of bias and personal ego, and an understanding of what makes yourself and others tick.
To hopefully aid in seeing the forest through the trees here, let me provide an example. Let’s say there’s a person in your life that behaves in a fashion that causes you to feel a certain way. For the sake of the example, let’s pretend that feeling is a negative one. This is a problem you would like to address. There are several paths to take to identify the problem, but one could argue that the main issue is that when this person behaves a certain way you encounter negative emotions. Those emotions stink. Positive emotions are mucho bueno. One tempting road you could take is to approach that human and say something along these lines: “Hey human, you’re a pain in my ass, why don’t you stop being the way you are, and be more like the wonderful perfect specimen of a human that I am!” Now while this may result in some rather colorful and exciting interactions, it’s generally not recommended. Pointing out faults in others immediately puts them on the defensive, and the mission is not to change the other person. The mission is to remove your negative feelings, because negative feelings stink. Another potential approach could be something along these lines: “Hey human (pro tip, don’t call them human, use their real name, people like hearing their name), occasionally when we interact I experience certain feelings. I would like to spend more time with you, but I don’t want to spend more time with these negative thoughts, can we chat about this?” This removes personal ego and opens the door to potential growth.
You are always in control of how you react and feel in the presence of external influences. A deeper commitment to this single fact changed the way I approached my professional and personal life.
I developed a bad habit of placing the reason behind my shortcomings onto the actions of others. I’m on a mission to change that, and to find the joy in life under stones that I have previously left unturned. To compare my progress on this undefined mental journey back to the world of running, let’s just say that I’ve barely completed a 5k when the goal is to run a 100 miler.
As I continued to march through this mental health journey I began to realize that I needed time to think, and digest the daily variables of life. Now this may come as a surprise to many, but in order to complete an ultramarathon, you need to run a lot. Fitting a large sum of running miles into my life requires deploying the running shoes at some rather unusual hours. So more often than not these miles are fulfilled by a party of one. Pardon my french here, but holy shit does it not feel like there is only one human present on these mornings. There are thoughts coming at me from all angles. One would think that a several hour run would be plenty of time to wrap up a few thoughts amongst these auditory hallucinations, but lemme tell ya, usually we are just getting started.
As I mentioned earlier, the goal was to enhance mental and physical wellbeing. When the commitment was made to seeing this through, the train started chuggin.
So back to the technical side. I knew the progress towards the Leadville 100 mission would need to be staged. About one year ago I signed up for a 50 mile trail ultramarathon in the mountains above Steamboat, CO. Improving strength, endurance, and understanding the particulars of human performance was of great importance. I dove into these various facets of the process, and started to find my groove.
After many months of training, race day had arrived. Here’s my summary of how I felt, what I learned, and the broader gains of the experience…
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After criss-crossing the mountains for the better part of the last year, I still never felt like I was a true trail runner. I don’t really look the part. I still wear gear I bought 6 years ago. I’m not entirely sure what those little floppy hats are all about. I haven’t quite figured out why some guys ditch the shorts and just wear tights. After covering an abhorrent quantity of miles I still can’t run up all the gnarly climbs on the local trails.
Needless to say when I showed up to my first ultra marathon start line, I felt out of place. By this point I’m fairly used to the local road race put on by a town or city. You arrive at a fairly normal hour that humans should be awake, there’s a bunch of people around, you shoot the breeze about if you’re getting the brat or the burger after the jog. It’s quite civilized, light hearted, and jovial. The morning of the Run Rabbit Run 50 Miler…was not that.
The race started at 6 AM. I showed up to the start line 30 minutes early. I had thought about this one detail about 4 times. Each time I engaged in this mini internal dialogue I was sure this was the correct arrival time to an event of this flavor. There were 4 other people there when I arrived. Turns out this wouldn’t be the last rookie mistake of the day.
Seemingly everyone there was a friggin elite athlete…or at least that’s the way my deer-in-headlights brain had contrived the situation. These people were pros. I would come to find out that traveling 50 miles by foot, at 10,000’ of elevation, while climbing and subsequently descending 9,000’ of elevation gain, would require a fairly large physical and mental output. These people knew that 15 more minutes of sleep, or 15 additional minutes not requiring focus and willpower could help. They knew what they had signed up for and were aware that the physical and mental output would push, and potentially exceed, what they were capable of.
Don’t get me wrong, I had certainly put some brainpower towards this fact. I mapped out each ounce of water, each calorie, each milligram of sodium, hell – I even thought about what the appropriate amount of lubrication would be to lather across various areas of my body, but I had plenty more to learn. And learn this guy did.
Before we fast forward an awkward 30 minutes to the start of the race, let me set the scene:
200 braindead humans are puttering around wearing just enough clothing, in the dark/cold/overcast morning, with headlamps strapped to their heads, convincing themselves it’s a good idea to run 50 miles. The whole thing starts and ends at the base of the Steamboat Ski Resort. It doesn’t take a psychic to forecast the charcuterie board of miles that is served ahead of a healthy entree of suffering. Ya just travel straight up the damn ski resort. 6.5 miles, with 3,500’ of elevation gain. From there the fortunate few jump on some single track, and get an appetizer of downhill/flat-ish miles through the woods with a few hors doueuvres of rocks, roots, and loose dirt sprinkled on top for taste. When you start feeling like you might have a chance, the chef comes out with a shit eating grin on his face letting you know that at mile 23, you’ll be climbing for 2 miles at a disgusting grade another 1,000’ vertical feet in the air, touch some magical rock, make an about face, and march your happy ass back to where you started along the same trail 25 miles away.
OK. Now that we’ve gotten the formalities out of the way, let’s get back to the part where I lined up next to a bunch of truly fit mountain people, and pretended like I knew what the hell I was doing. The “gun” went off (which was just some dude yelling at us to start), and something weird happened. With the exception of about 20 people, none of these humans started running. They just started walking. I was completely befuddled. Turns out most of them had done this before, and knew that making up time while ascending thousands of vertical feet at elevation, wasn’t the right play.
Again, I had thought about it this! Extensively! But I wasn’t one of these above optimal trail traveling specialists. I was just little old me, trying to engineer his way through a boatload of miles. I knew that slow was the answer at this start, but I had planned to run when I could. Grab some speed as it is allowed. I would run, then hike, run a little more, hike a little more. I started noticing the damndest thing. The people around me that never broke their stride from the aggressive power hiking approach, didn’t lose any ground on me. In fact, they started to gain on me! They just stayed steady, powering up this hill, but nothing about their stride resembled a jog. They used an efficient consistent stride to motor up this climb. The mental notebook was already hard at work.
We get to the top as the sun is rising and it’s as clear as can be. It was stunningly beautiful. We were lucky to have a day in which the clouds had inverted. Meaning they were all hugging the town of steamboat down below, but up high, it was a beautiful clear day. This was not lost on me. I tried, when possible, to pick my head up and take this in.
There was an aid station at the top of this climb for a nice water refill and to get some words of encouragement from the volunteers. From there we were all like kids in a running candy store. We had life in our legs, got served up some singletrack trails, and got to enjoy some downhill miles amongst a group of other running sickos. A true delight.
This section of the course I was planning to put down some decent times on each mile. I knew it may be the only descent that I had some actual life in my legs. A real issue propped up at this point. A line of people were all held up by one or two people up front. A true “longest pole in the test” scenario. You could pass people, but it wasn’t easy, and came with the risk of a rolled ankle or ending up ass over tea kettle. I made peace with that conga line and made myself at home.
Eventually the crowd thinned out and I was able to settle in with a group of runners who matched my pace. This group had a built-in hype man. His name was Andrew. I appreciate every ounce of juice this guy provided. He was ready to roll, and brought the heat with positive encouragement and good vibes. My buddy Andrew would enter the screenplay in the second half of the film, and things would look a little different.
As previously mentioned I had put quite a bit of thought into my nutrition and hydration. My strategy consisted of almost exclusively gels, and liquid based calories. For those interested in the particulars, I wanted 1,000 mg of sodium (electrolytes), 300 calories (mostly carbohydrates), and 30 oz. of water (H2O) per hour. Hitting these targets requires a concerted effort of constant eating and drinking. There were plenty of aid stations along the way, but to reduce waste on the trail, they wouldn’t be providing gels. This meant I would need to carry them, and carry them I did. I had way too much stuff. Enter these other running specialists I was surrounded by again – These people had almost nothing. I was stunned. They had a belt or a running vest with almost nothing in em. They would rely on aid stations, I would rely on multiple pounds of gels in my vest. Again, I thought about this, but I had trained for almost a year, and found a nutrition strategy that worked for my stomach. The trade off of the additional weight seemed appropriate.
My biggest fear was the sodium numbers. The night before I had convinced myself that I would be short on sodium. I packed a ridiculous amount of chewable salt pills. 50 mg a piece. I figured every hour I would reach into my pocket and eat about four or five of these things. This would supplement the sodium in my water flasks.
All sounds like a great idea right!? Wrong. This is when things start trending in the southerly direction. You see, I was sweating, but not near the levels I’m accustomed to. It was a little chilly, and my sweat levels were way down compared to the heat I had trained in all summer.
I had just finished choking down a handful of salt tabs when my stomach started to revolt. Looking back, I think I took in too much salt, given the relative lack of sweat/salt that had left my body at that point in the day. For more context, at this point I am 20 miles in. It’s quite normal for me to cover that distance and be completely covered in salt. I’m a salty sweater, hence my paranoia around the intake of this mineral. But on this day, in this weather, and this elevation, I just wasn’t losing water, and therefore wasn’t losing too much sodium. Looking back this diagnosis doesn’t appear to require a Harvard education. Howevahhhh, at the moment, this analysis wasn’t coming to me.
I started to convince myself it was just a cramp, a big one. My pace slowed but I was able to run. I certainly felt very uncomfortable, but wasn’t convinced this was enough to alter my day. I made it to mile 23, which is where I got to see my crew, which was a huge boost. I explained in graphic detail what my stomach was up against and the various methods it was taking to relieve the various gases the body had stewed up. I’ll let your imagination devise those details. I got my water topped off, and tried to keep this stop relatively brief. I had a bear of a climb ahead, and I wanted to get on with it. I hobbled off and started in on this death march.
The suffering on the way up, and the subsequent pounding on the way down, didn’t allow for much eating. At this point I’m pretty far behind on my nutrition and hydration numbers. My crew chief (aka my lovely wife) and I were pretty worried when I got back to them at mile 28. We took the strategy of getting calories down at all costs.
A quick sidebar to discuss what calories look like in this ridiculous “sport.” Endurance activities are driven mostly by carbohydrates. The body is able to break down and use this fuel source easier and more efficiently than fat or protein. There are two types of carbohydrates. Complex and simple. Complex carbs like bread, bananas, pastas, can take several hours for the body to break down and use to propel my half dead soul down the trail. Simple carbohydrates on the other hand, are a touch different. A simple carb is basically sugar. This is a beautiful thing for a wannabe runner with a sweet tooth. The body is able to take sugar and convert it to fuel in a matter of minutes.
These simple carbohydrates can come in any form your heart desires. For me this was gels, various sports mixes in water, and, wait for it….Coca Cola and candy. Nerds gummy clusters to be exact. A handful of these will constitute enough calories for a quality 3 miles. Now here’s the only slight issue with our plan at mile 28. Taking down a handful of potato chips, 8 Oz of coke, two handfuls of nerds gummy clusters, 100 calories of sports nutrition in my water, along with 1,000 mg of sodium, may have some adverse results. 7 minutes later (my longest pit stop of the day) I was up and off to make a quick visit to the portable potty facility, then running again and sucking down 450 calories of gels. Now I’m sure it’s pretty easy in hindsight for all you Martin Scorcese aspirants to predict the next scene in this movie. It didn’t get better.
This all seems pretty clear now, but it’s hard to articulate the importance of nutrition over the course of a 12 hour endurance event. When the dust settled, my Garmin had calculated that I burned over 7,000 calories that day. Some say that ultra running is just an eating contest with some running on the side. Calories are king, and I was desperate to get them down.
We’re now around mile 30. I’m very nauseous, and running became a problem. In the days since the race I’ve tried to explain that my stomach went south and this was a problem. The general reaction I get is something along the lines of “Tough it out big boy, drink some water and don’t worry about your tummy ache.” Lemme tell ya, I wish it were this simple. I would push my body to run, and this would cause an almost immediate urge to remove all of the contents of my stomach from my being. While my stomach wasn’t down with the hoodlums hanging around at the time, we all knew they kind of wanted those dudes around for the remainder of this prolonged bar fight. So I hatched a new plan.
The months leading up to this I had listened to a large quantity of ultra running podcasts (yes, that’s a thing). I knew that this problem was common, and everyone had various ways of handling the issue. One method fortunately planted some roots in the brain came to me in my adventuring stupor. It went something like this:
Step #1 – Commit to walking.
Step #2 – Cease and desist intake of any and all forms of calories.
Step #3 – Sip on extremely small amounts of water in an effort to trick your body/mind into thinking you’re getting something into the system.
Step #4 – Pray like hell this works.
I opt to utilize this strategy.
We’re now at mile 31. Things aren’t looking great, until my buddy Andrew reintroduces himself to the plot. He was running. I was walking. He passed and told me to get on the train, and join him for as long as I could. I let him know I was riding shotgun on the struggle bus. I asked how he was and I’ll never forget his response. “I’m battling some serious demons right now brother.” Andrew had lost his lunch an estimated 15 times already that day. His previous 50 mile attempt resulted in him being found by the medical staff on the side of the trail in the fetal position 40 miles into the effort. Andrew and I suffered for a few miles together until we hit the next aid station. He was in worse shape than I was, but was still able to inspire me to move. I got in and out of that aid station fairly quickly, and Andrew needed some time to have a chat with those demons. I never saw him again that day, but I do know this, he finished the damn race. Can you imagine, puking 15 times before mile 31, and getting yourself through another 19 miles!!?? The people I’ve met in this sport have provided more inspiration than I can properly explain.
One other thing happened at that aid station. I came in, took a seat, put on my rain jacket before the hail storm introduced itself, then had a brief and delirious chat with one of the volunteers. I uttered something about my fragile stomach, and she reached for a Costco sized bottle of Tums. Let me tell you, this changed my day. I popped one of those down the hatch and ventured off into the hail strewn wilderness. One mile later, I was back in the competition.
At this point I was by no means healed, but I felt marginally better, and that was enough for me to go to work. As I’ve explained in detail, I’m not an expert in this activity. My VO2 max isn’t that good, my heart rate is a little higher than most endurance runners, my stride is mediocre, but I do have one thing. For whatever reason I am able to suffer. I’ve chiseled out some cozy little corners of my personal pain cave. It’s not fun, but I am not afraid to enter a heightened state of discomfort, and stay there for a long damn time.
This was my time to utilize my one asset, and use it I did.
At this point I was not worried about the miles left, I was just worried about my stomach holding out, and winning the mental battle between my mind and my legs. We’re now at mile 35 and this is beyond any single day distance I’ve ever done. The legs are sufficiently cooked, and my focus has been coming and going due to the stress of the day. Fortunately I never lost my desire to compete, and I almost welcomed the notion that my legs would hurt more than they’ve ever hurt in my life. Burning quads means less focus on my tipsy tummy, and more focus on something else.
I got to the next aid station around mile 37. I let the individuals know that I had never been happier to see a group of strangers in my life. I kept this stop brief, and off I went. I became fixated on mile 40. That was a big milestone for me, then I knew we had a big climb ahead to get to the top of Mt. Werner at mile 46. At this point we have found something, and the body is responding.
Another interlude. One reason I got into this was to discover what it’s like to reach what I had originally perceived to be the physical and mental breaking point, and see what it was like, or if it was possible, to dig your way out of it. At this point, I got this experience. I could not have been more enamored with this fact. It brought me so much energy to realize that the body responded after visiting the depths of suffering I’ve never touched before.
Mile 42 the weather went from bad to brutal. The rain was coming down at a decent clip and I absolutely loved it. I was elated because I was getting the entire experience I asked for. This was not a sunny, flat, fast 50 miles down in the city. This was an adventure. One that I knew I would never forget.
I made it up to mile 44 and from this point it’s all downhill. These downhills stretches sound nice in theory, but they really pound the quads, knees, and feet. Again, at this point, this flavor of pain is suiting my palette just fine, but it certainly was starting to take its toll. At this juncture I got to pick up my pacer, my good friend Haley. She was able to take the gondola about 4 miles up the hill, but decided to keep trekking up the mountain another 2 miles in the pouring rain to meet me. I’m sure glad she was there to keep an eye on me as this sufferfest started to reach its conclusion.
We made our way down the mountain and to the finish, where I was fortunate to cross the line with my two kids, and embrace my biggest supporter after I crossed the line. 12 hours and 22 minutes. Almost an hour slower than I was aiming for. After reflection those numbers have come to mean very little. I set out on this mission a year ago to finish this race ahead of the 15 hour cutoff. I did that, and I learned one important lesson along the way – Win the battle with your mind, and the rest will follow.